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all within five years.S. but this years budget calls for $244 million easily the largest aid package in South Sudan and Svens European Union is also investing heavily in rural development and "capacity building" the euphemism for helping the South Sudanese construct a government that isnt corrupt Mundari children guard Watusi cattle in camp Photo: Marco Di LauroGood luck with that President Kiir recently sent a pleading letter to his ministers asking for the return of $4 billion that he said had gone missing Oil will be as much curse as blessing: some 75 percent of the old Sudans oil fields are just inside the southern territory while the only two pipelines go north through Khartoum to the Red Sea Since independence relations between Sudan and South Sudan have declined rapidly the north withholding payments for southern oil the south retaliating by withholding the oil itself (South Sudan lost 98 percent of its government revenues; the north was hurt almost as badly) Meanwhile continuing outbreaks of violence have threatened to ruin everything and despite a new deal to restart the flow of oil and cash neither was moving during my visit in late 2012 South Sudan had the desperate inflated feel of a wartime country dependent on charities and aid with Chinese contractors waiting in the wings for their turnMaybe the fighting will stop Maybe the oil will start But no matter what happens almost anything will be an improvementDAY TWO AND THE AIR is wet and warm the voice of Africa a low rumble of water from a deep cleft Somewhere down below the flat acacia trees hidden in thick green bush is Imatong Falls South Sudans other great resource is water pouring copiously out of the high southern hills toward the northern deserts We catch only a brief glimpse of the heavy rushing cascade along with our first peek at the steep and jagged mountains overlooking the tree-filled valleys Then we move on without pause Sven is setting the pace and it is fast No time for soaking our toes or for anything but walkingThe day before in the Land Cruiser the von Burgsdorffs engaged in what diplomats would call a frank discussion about the extent of paved roads in South Sudan"One thousand kilometers" Sven said "No papa No""Yes for sure Minimum""No papa A thousand Youre crazy Its like a hundred"Sven began naming towns with a few paved blocks here and there "Hes counting every sidewalk" David shouted from the back They could go at each other like this five times an hour merciless relentless and still laughing Sven takes pride in his soneven more in walking him into the ground and eating weirder things If David surfs with great whites in Cape Town Sven parachutes off a high cliff above Juba into the arms of waiting policemen (actual story) Somewhere between the dismal reality (a hundred kilometers of asphalt) and the diplomatic optimism (a thousand) is the real South Sudan the one that mattersIt was night by the time we plunged down the final miles of the road south passing the town of Torit and arriving in a small village called Kitere at the very end of the road ruts We woke up on the dirt floor of a hut in darkness "The adventure starts where the road ends" Sven offered and nothing was a cliché at 5:40 AMOnce weve gathered a guide and a few porters from Kiterea biblically named crew called Daniel David Simon John and Josephwe start ascending steeply up through fields of ten-foot-tall sorghum on a muddy path no wider than a single man Even this begins to fade quickly and after passing a few final primitive huts and corn fields we climb an ever narrower track slippery clay sending us crashing down repeatedly Sunrise makes it clear that our route to Mount Kinyetiabout 31 miles round-trip by Svens calculationwill be painful Impenetrable brush closes over the trail which is soon reduced to a hunters trace used by outsiders only about once a year Daniel says hes brought five previous groups to the mountain since 2005 EU commissioner Sven Kuhn von Burgsdorff (center) and two local porters on Mount Kinyeti Photo: Marco Di LauroWe cross five streams the first morning: the first two are bridged after a fashion the logs wet with the spray of tumbling whitewater The next streams arent bridged at all The guides sure-footed in sandals or rubber boots leap from rock to rock; I fall in once and use all three pairs of my socks on the first morning Marco takes the cautious approach crossing barefoot while swearing "Im never going to work with you again"The fact is were out of our league Sven is a fitness freak and sets a pace that even the hardened Africans have trouble keeping Back in Juba I talked with Peter Meredith a famed South African kayaker who is trying to launch the first commercial rafting trips in South Sudan to take expats from the capital on floats down the White Nile Meredith suggested doing the hike to Kinyeti in three or more days but with Svens meeting in Juba we must travel 31 miles get up to 10000 feet and be back at the road in a little over 48 hoursFerns enclose the trail and the dramatic views of the pale green Imatongs are extinguished by triple-canopy jungle a chaotic world of switchbacks amid stinging fireweed and stands of mint and wild cannabis Eight hours pass this way until we finally collapse at 7500 feet next to a crude lean-to We fumble into sleeping bags and tents; the disciples curl up on the ground under their jackets"On stone on water" Joseph tells me "we sleep"GETTING ANY VIEW of South Sudan as a whole is tough Juba is located well enough sitting where the powerful White Nile drops out of the Central African lakes the mother water rolling northward past the city at running speed before it splits into meanders to form the vast 11500-square-mile Sudd wetland among Africas largest Eventually the waters regather joining the Blue Nile in Sudan proper and pushing past Khartoum and on to EgyptBut Juba is more encampment than city a sprawling settlement of homely huts and instant apartments whose population has swelled to more than a million as waves of returning exiles and rural people have moved in Many thousands of foreigners have come here as well riding around in white Land Cruisers during the twice-a-day traffic jams that are a mark of pride for locals The most common signage is anything beginning with the letters "UN" and a trip across town uses reference points like "Go past WHO" and "Turn left at WFP" Diplomats from the US,christian louboutin cate boot, Craig Alexander,black and white coach handbag," Scott Sr. "and I met this musician backstage and she said,vintage christian louboutin shoes, His popularity has made him new friends like Ben Stiller and earned him a couple of houses in prime locations on Oahu's North Shore and near Santa Barbara.
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